“Time is what we want most, but what we use worst.”William Penn

Pondering about luxury watches checks both of those actions.

Types

  • Quartz: battery powered
  • Mechanical
    • Manual-wind
    • Automatic: winds itself through wrist movement

Components

  • Case: the body of the watch, can be made of different materials
    • steel, ceramic, titanium, precious metals
  • Dial:
    • indexes: the markers on the dial that indicate the time
    • hands: the rotating pointers
  • Complications: any added features beyond telling the time.
  • Crystal: the glass protecting the dial (sapphire, mineral)
  • Bezel: The ring around the dial (can rotate for dive watches)
  • Movement: the internal mechanism
  • Lugs
  • Crown
  • strap/bracelet

Mechanical

When looking at mechanical watches, take into account the jewels. They’re sapphire or ruby pieces that are used to reduce the friction between the moving parts.

  • Mechanical watches usually come in a standard of 17 jewels (fully jewelled)
  • Some complications can lead to additional jewels used

Complications

  • Day/date complication
  • Chronograph: stopwatch functionality
  • GMT / dual zone
  • Moon phase
  • Power reserve indicator
  • Tourbillon: You can identify it by the slow rotation of the mechanical heart

Styles

  • Dress Watches – Minimalist, elegant, often thin
    • Generally no complications, but if thin/elegant enough, complications aren’t out of the question
    • Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin (Moon)
  • Dive Watches – Water-resistant, robust, usually with rotating bezels
    • Breitling superocean, Omega seamaster
  • Pilot Watches – Large, legible, often with GMT
    • Breitling navitimer
  • Field Watches – Rugged, military-inspired
    • Some G-shock models fit the bill
  • Chronographs – With stopwatch functions
  • Luxury / Haute Horlogerie – Grand complications, hand-finished
  • Bauhaus/Minimalist — Nomos, Junghans

Dressing styles

Notable brands

  • Entry: Seiko, Casio, Citizen, Bulova
  • Mid-tier: Tissot, Hamilton, Oris
  • Luxury:
    • Entry: Longines, Nomos, Jungahns
    • Mid: Tudor (mid), Grand Seiko (upper-mid), Omega (upper-mid)
    • Upper: Rolex
  • High end: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin,
    • These are prohibitively expensive TODO: research their histories, create pages for those that interest me

See also

Hodinkee: Watch 101